CHRISTMAS OFFER Subscribe to Surrey Life today CLICK HERE

The Mulberry restaurant at Langshott Manor, Horley, Surrey RH6 9LN – restaurant review

PUBLISHED: 18:07 01 May 2012 | UPDATED: 09:44 16 July 2014

The Mulberry restaurant at Langshott Manor, Horley, Surrey RH6 9LN – restaurant review

The Mulberry restaurant at Langshott Manor, Horley, Surrey RH6 9LN – restaurant review

Steeped in history, Langshott Manor is found just a stone's throw from Gatwick Airport and yet, somehow, also in peaceful seclusion. Matthew Williams paid a visit to enjoy some fine dining at their recently refurbished Mulberry restaurant...

 

 

Originally published in Surrey Life magazine April 2012


Reviewed: Mulberry Restaurant, Langshott Manor, near Gatwick, Horley, Surrey RH6 9LN: 01293 786680

***

The Verdict:

Food 9
Venue 9
Service 9 

What we ate:

À la carte: Three courses for £45

Starters:
Pressing of rabbit with pineapple and macadamia nuts
Braised cheek & belly of White Sussex Pork with forced rhubarb and chicory

Main courses:
Roasted breast of guineafowl – braised leg, ballotine, potato gnocchi, wild mushrooms
Loin of venison topped with a thyme and cognac mousalline with calvo nero, swede and beetroot

Desserts:
Dark chocolate and pistachio torte, sorbet and jelly
Crème brûlée with homemade shortbread on the side

Artisan cheeses with apple chutney and pickled walnut bread, £10

Coffee and petit fours, £4.50

Drinks:
Marques de Caceres, Rioja Crianza, 2007, £33

 

***

REVIEW: Arriving at Langshott Manor on a chilly Monday evening felt like something from an Agatha Christie murder mystery. The lights were on, the door was slightly ajar, but as we entered in through the front of the hotel things were eerily quiet, bar the humming of an unanswered phone upstairs.

A grand old 16th century building that has counted a Governor of the Bank of England among its owners, Langshott Manor is surprisingly serene considering its proximity to Gatwick – you feel like you’ve got lost in the middle of nowhere, yet are actually a ten-minute drive from a thriving international travel hub.

Just as we were wondering whether we had arrived on the right night, or whether we’d find a motley collection of strangers by the fire in the living room, a smiling face approached from the direction of the restaurant and our waiter, a Hungarian named Geza with years of cruise ship experience, invited us for aperitifs.

Passing a series of relaxed lounges, we were led to the newly refurbished Mulberry restaurant and in turn to a table overlooking the glorious gardens, where we later enjoyed watching a fox prowl around the moat. Tables are well-spaced and the new décor brings a modern, unfussy touch to take the historic setting into the 21st century.

Offered the seven-course tasting menu, which is available with pairing wines for each dish, we instead decided to mix and match from their à la carte menu (there is also a vegetarian menu on offer).

Service took a little time to warm up but was soon up to speed, and with a bottle of Rioja ordered, we received a butternut squash amuse-bouche of soup and jelly – a mouthwatering beginning.

For the starters, my fiancée Sylviane opted for the pressing of rabbit with pineapple and macadamia nuts, while I went for braised cheek and belly of white Sussex pork with forced rhubarb and chicory. They arrived along with homemade breads (my favourite was a pepper and parmesan offering – I could have eaten the loaf, if I’m honest).

Service with a flourish
My own dish was presented with a flourish, with sauce poured on arrival, and though I had been a little wary of the thought of rhubarb, I was quickly won over. The pork itself was succulent and was well-complemented by the fruitier flavours. Sylviane was similarly taken with the pineapple that sat atop her rabbit. Both dishes made every part of the palate work and looked good enough to be in an artisan cookery book.

The presentation of our main courses was also exquisite, with the ballotine a particular highlight of the guineafowl dish that Sylviane had chosen. I tried it, too, and but for my fondness for venison might have attempted to switch dishes while she was looking out the window. However, my choice, with the meat wrapped in calvo nero, and accented by beetroot, was equally as good.

It was my crème brûlée though that won dish of the day. If any of you have seen the film Amélie, you’ll know the great joy that cracking a crème brûlée can bring and, if you haven’t, you may feel just the same way anyway; a perfect classic and with the bonus of homemade shortbread on the side. Sylviane opted for the dark chocolate and pistachio torte, sorbet and jelly – and declared it to be delicious.

The cheese to follow was fantastic, with selections served on a breadboard accompanied by a cinnamon infused apple chutney and a mini loaf of bread.

At £45 a head, the Mulberry isn’t cheap, but that cost is certainly reflected by the location and food on offer – and, with murder mystery worries a distant memory, we left Langshott Manor with a greater understanding of why literary stars, music producers and film directors have been known to frequent the hotel. Clue: it’s not just because of the airport…



 

More from Surrey Life

Thursday, November 15, 2018

Surrey is full of secret hideaways and hidden gems. Slades Farm on the Wintershall Estate is definitely one of them

Read more
Wednesday, November 14, 2018

The new hotel is set to open in spring 2019 and will be located in the heart of the vineyard, offering sweeping views over the North Downs Way.

Read more
Tuesday, November 13, 2018

From Santa’s Grottos, to Victorian Christmas markets and late-night shopping, we’ve covered what’s on in Surrey this season

Read more
Tuesday, November 13, 2018

Whether you're looking for fine dining, pub grub or exotic dishes, eating out in Surrey has something for everyone. Here's our guide to the best local restaurants and pubs

Read more
Tuesday, November 13, 2018

Having bloomed in Brighton’s restaurant scene over the past decade, The Chilli Pickle opened its second site in Guildford this summer

Read more
Monday, November 12, 2018

Historic Royal Palaces and IMG have announced that Kylie Minogue is the first headliner confirmed for Hampton Court Palace Festival 2019. These will be her only London shows of summer 2019. Here’s how you can get tickets

Read more
Monday, November 12, 2018

Enjoy this linear rail to ramble section of the Thames Down Link route taking the short train-ride from Box Hill & Westhumble to Ashtead before walking back

Read more
Monday, November 12, 2018

Great things to do in Surrey this weekend (16, 17 and 18 November): art exhibitions, walks, concerts, theatre, places to visit and other events and ideas.

Read more
Tuesday, November 6, 2018

It’s that time of year when our beautiful countryside is alight with the colours of autumn. Here, we pick out some of her favourite spots to enjoy the seasonal splendour – as well as some perfect places for a post-walk refresher

Read more
Tuesday, November 6, 2018

Found on the stretch of the River Thames between Weybridge and East Molesey, Sunbury-on-Thames is blessed with a village feel where it meets the water. From antique hunts to the joys of river life, here are a few of our favourite reasons to visit

Read more
Monday, November 5, 2018

Verity & Violet are Loui and Jess – a singing duo from Surrey who specialise in blending vintage classics with modern favourites. The two have achieved success in the capital, but are now hoping to attract an audience closer to home

Read more
Friday, November 2, 2018

With the Christmas celebrations seemingly starting earlier every year, it all feels a little too ‘soon’ sometimes, but what if you want to look your best for Christmas & New year celebrations and are considering having cosmetic non-surgical procedures? The Bella Vou Pantiles Clinic offers surgical and non-surgical cosmetic procedures and treatments from a purpose-built private clinic in the heart of Royal Tunbridge Wells

Read more
Thursday, November 1, 2018

Living in England’s most densely wooded county, it’s always a pleasure to witness Surrey donning its autumn finery. Here’s some of the best places to do just that - plus a few pub pit stops to enjoy on route!

Read more
Wednesday, October 31, 2018

We are regularly reminded of the high cost of housing with statistics revealing that only one in three millennials will be able to afford their own home during their lifetime and that most will remain in the category known as Generation Rent

Read more

Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to the following newsletters:

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Our Privacy Policy

Topics of Interest


Follow us on Twitter


Like us on Facebook

Subscribe or buy a mag today

subscription ad

Local Business Directory

Property Search