Tony Tobin's June Kitchen Diary

This month’s Kitchen Diary starts with a thank you. I received my first ‘postbag’ since starting this column in April. Okay, so it was just three letters, but it’s a good start. One of the three stood out from the others because it was from a couple who could not agree on the best way to make an omelette. Consequently, I not only get the chance to resolve a marital culinary dispute but also a theme for this month’s column: ‘back to basics’!

Apparently, there is a new ‘pro-am’ generation of amateur chefs, photographers, cyclists and other enthusiasts who go out of their way to buy the equipment that professionals use. Not for them a £3 Woolies paring knife; it needs to be a thoroughbred Japanese tempered steel all-in-one affair that wouldn’t look out of place in a martial arts movie.

As a chef, I wholeheartedly believe in having the ‘right tools for the job’ but my best tip for budding chefs is to remember that – no matter how expensive your knives, hob or mixing bowls – great cooking relies on mastering the basics before you tackle that lobster thermidor.
So, with that in mind, I have picked two basics this month: 1) The omelette – to solve our readers’ dispute and 2) White sauce.

On the famous video sharing website, YouTube, I recently saw someone make a perfect omelette by putting two eggs, butter and seasoning into a zip-up plastic bag, mushing it all up and then popping it into a pan of boiling water for ten minutes.

If, however, you prefer a more traditional approach, take two fresh eggs (or three if you are hungry), break them into a bowl and gently beat with a fork. Then season with a little salt and pepper. Next, heat a non-stick frying pan with a little butter, and as the butter starts to sizzle, add the beaten eggs. Using a spatula, move the egg around until it resembles very runny scrambled egg. At this point, turn the heat down slightly and don’t move the egg mix any more. Cook like this for about 30 seconds and then remove the pan from the heat. You will now be able to roll your omelette into the correct shape and tip it onto your plate.

Now to make a great white sauce, the simple rule is this: hot roux, cold milk; cold roux, hot milk. If the roux (the fat and flour mixture that you make the basic ‘paste’ with) and the milk are the same temperature you will get lumps sure as eggs is eggs! I prefer the warm roux method and remove the butter from the heat when it is melted to make the roux – which should be a thick paste. Then put a very small amount of milk in at a time, stirring after each splash until the whole mixture is the same consistency. Finally, when the sauce is near liquid once more, add the final amount of milk – still stirring all the way – and only after this return the pan to the heat. Keep stirring right the way until the sauce thickens. Easy! And the same theory is the basis for all good white sauces.

Finally, if any readers have any burning questions, for the next few months I shall be in the Deli at my restaurant POST in Banstead most of the mornings when I am not filming, so feel free to bend my ear!

Tony's Bio

TONY Tobin has been a regular on the BBC’s Ready Steady Cook for over a decade, competing on the show over 200 times. He has also hosted shows for the Carlton Food Channel and is a favourite at major events such as The Ideal Home Show. He runs two acclaimed restaurants in Surrey: The Dining Room in Reigate and POST in Banstead.

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