Surrey Restaurants - The Latymer at Pennyhill Park

Above: The spectacular Pennyhill Park

Located at the fabulous Pennyhill Park Hotel in Bagshot, the exclusive Latymer restaurant has recently undergone a complete refurbishment. JOHN HUGHES went along to the opening night to get a sneak preview. Photos by Helen Hughes

Think of Pennyhill Park and probably the first thing that comes to mind is the famous spa – widely regarded as one of the finest in the country. 

However, what you may not know is that this much-revered hotel is also home to the exclusive Latymer Restaurant – which has recently undergone a major refurbishment and has now reopened with an acclaimed new head chef at the helm, Michael Wignall.
 
Previously at The Devonshire Arms Hotel in Yorkshire, Michael has built up a formidable reputation over the years, so naturally we were keen to sample some of his acclaimed dishes.

At the launch night, we were treated to what can only be described as a remarkable culinary experience in the most luxurious of surroundings.
 
The sample ‘tasting’ menu consisted of eight courses, each immaculately presented and providing a tantalising hint of Michael’s cooking – which he himself describes as “complex, carefully crafted and very technical but without being intimidating”.

Flair and imagination...

The first course – marinated organic duck liver, smoked corn fed duck, confit rhubarb and bacon foam – was a prime example with clear, familiar flavours presented with flair and imagination.

Space does not allow descriptions of all the courses; however, suffice to say they were all equally fascinating. If I had a favourite, it was probably the cannon of lamb, black pudding and apple croquette, carrot and cumin puree, braised tongue and anchovy beignet – quite superb.
This is premier fine dining at its best, and complemented by wines of similar distinction, presented with aplomb by expert sommelier Davide Vaccarini.

We sampled four and I was hooked in particular by the first, Giardini Arimei, Muratori, from the island of Ischia in the Bay of Naples; a sweet wine, amber in colour, suited usually to cheeses and confectionery, but presented here with the duck liver starter. It worked perfectly, a surprisingly pleasing match. 

As this was a special ‘tasting’ dinner, it is difficult to judge value for money at The Latymer; however, prices advertised on their website (£55 for three courses, £45 for two) suggest they are fair for this quality.

Of course, an extensive wine cellar to choose from could raise the total by any amount. Having said that, the good news is that they offer a remarkable 220 different wines by the glass, which in my case leaves a mere 216 still to try!

• The Latymer, Pennyhill Park Hotel & Spa, London Road, Bagshot, Surrey, GU19 5EU. Tel: 01276 471774. Website: www.pennyhillpark.co.uk

What we ate...

All the following dishes were on the special launch night tasting menu – however, they provide a useful insight to what you can expect

• Marinated organic duck liver, smoked corn fed duck, confit rhubarb and bacon foam 
• Vanilla scented salmon, sugar snap jelly and pomelo and avocado with Portland crab 
• Calves’ sweetbreads, braised cockscombs, Moroccan spiced pork belly and tonka bean veloute 
• Poached quail’s egg and Scottish langoustine, Jerez syrup, artichokes and autumn truffles 
• Cannon of lamb, black pudding and apple croquette, carrot and cumin puree, braised tongue and anchovy beignet 
• Vacherin mont d’or with poached pear and quince
• Raspberry jelly with tapioca, passion fruit and almond foam 
• Tiramisu parfait served with coffee tagliatelle and honey ice cream
• Coffee and petits fours

Food 9/10
Venue 9/10
Service 9/10

Dinner at The Latymer costs £55 for three courses, or £45 for two courses.

Meet the chef...

The new head chef at Pennyhill Park, Michael Wignall, who was previously at The Devonshire Arms Hotel in Yorkshire, is famous the length and breadth of the country for his mouth-watering local, seasonal dishes. Here, we put him under the spotlight...

How do you feel about coming to The Latymer at Pennyhill Park?

I’m hugely excited. I had been at my previous post for just over five years and had gone as far as I could go. At Pennyhill Park, I have the opportunity to really excel and to take my cooking to a whole new level. The five star surroundings of the hotel are really exceptional and the level of staff training and service are second to none. I have yet to visit the other three hotels within the Exclusive Hotels group, but I know the other chefs, and the standard of cooking within the group is extremely high, so I’m really proud to be here. Ultimately, my goal is to win a Michelin star for The Latymer.

Will you be making big changes to the menus?

Yes, the menus will change; I’ve been working on new ones for a while. We are introducing a £28 three- course lunch menu, which I think will be really popular.

Have you brought staff with you?

I’ve brought Christine, my pastry chef, with me, but she’s the only one. The team here is so good that I wanted to build a new brigade.

What is your main inspiration?

I’m inspired by all sorts of things! The changing seasons and the different produce distinct to each particular time of year is a big influence. I love cooking with game and winter produce in particular. I’m also influenced by what can be found locally, and any local specialities.

Do you have a culinary hero?

I think anyone who works hard to raise awareness of good food and who inspires passion in others is a culinary hero. I’ve been inspired by the extraordinary dedication and creativeness of so many chefs – and I admire anyone who works over 70 hours a week in a kitchen!

What is your signature dish?

I don’t have a signature dish as such, as I’m constantly creating new dishes, updating my menus and trying to better the favourites that I have. One of my favourites is my Praline Sphere dessert, which is accompanied by roast watermelon & caramelised blueberries and served with liquorice ice cream. That will almost certainly be on the menu at The Latymer.

Do you find a big difference between working in Surrey and Yorkshire?

It’s a bit warmer down here, and I’ve already seen quite a few celebrities!

For more great ideas for places to eat and drink in the county,

check out Surrey Life's most recommended restaurants 

in our online review archive

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