<div style="display:inline;"> <img height="1" width="1" style="border-style:none;" alt="" src="//googleads.g.doubleclick.net/pagead/viewthroughconversion/1028731116/?value=0&amp;guid=ON&amp;script=0">
6 ISSUES FOR £6 Subscribe to Surrey Life today click here

The Plough Inn, Plough Lane, Downside, Cobham KT11 3LT - restaurant review

PUBLISHED: 09:32 12 October 2015 | UPDATED: 15:39 12 October 2015

This is a venue that glams it up - but also one that maintains its substance

This is a venue that glams it up - but also one that maintains its substance

www.jeremyrata.com

Swing out of Cobham town centre and you’ll find a ‘countryside’ pub sizzling with new life and packed full of class. Matthew Williams
 pays a visit to The Plough Inn to discover just what’s cooking

Mixing the historic and contemporary to produce a relaxed escape from life's hurly-burly Mixing the historic and contemporary to produce a relaxed escape from life's hurly-burly

Originally published in Surrey Life magazine September 2015

***

The Plough Inn

Plough Lane, Downside, Cobham KT11 3LT

Tel: 01932 589790

***

The low-down

Verdict

Food 8

Venue 9

Service 8

What we ate...


Starters:

Dressed Devon Crab on Toasted Sourdough with Lemon Oil, £8

Pressed Smoked Pork Belly special, £6

Main courses:

Wagyu-Angus Cross Sirloin, 28-Day Dry-Aged, £40 for 200g

Cornish Hake with a Courgette & Crab Salad, Goat’s Curd & Thyme, £14

Desserts:

Eton mess, £5

Chocolate brownie, £5

Drinks:

The Plough’s Rare Breed Ale (blended by Caledonian Brewery), £4.20

U. Passimiento, IGT, Baglio Gibellina, £5.50 for 125ml

The Cunning Plan, Shiraz, Langhorne Creek, Thistledown, £6.50 for 125ml

Côtes de Provence, Rosé, Cuvée Des Lices, Ravoire et Fils, £6.50 for 175ml

***

REVIEW: When frustration at the local dining scene got the better of them, four Surrey friends did the obvious thing: they bought one of their local pubs. Well, some of us can dream…

Once-upon-a-time a workers’ cottage for the Cobham Park Estate, The Plough Inn has been showered with love in recent months and veritably sparkles now. There’s melting candles in the fireplace, throws on the sofas and glossy-magazine interior design throughout, but all while maintaining the inherent character.

In an area perhaps best-known these days as the home of Chelsea FC, this place immediately looks the part. However, if footballers’ wives glitz isn’t your bag, it hasn’t lost any of its historic pub charm either. Cleverly split into snug, bar and restaurant areas, there’s also a lovely garden, so you can relax where you feel most at home.

Located just outside Cobham town centre, it’s also surrounded by fields and alongside The Medicine Garden sanctuary, so retains a lost-in-the-countryside feel despite barely being off the beaten track.

Sober as a judge

On our arrival, my wife Sylviane, daughter Iona and I were greeted at the door by the exuberant manager Axel, who ensured a fun and faultless night was to be had throughout – no easy task considering, that same week, we were also midway through our judging run for the Surrey Life Food & Drink Awards’ Pub of the Year!

Back to the matter in hand though, and this is probably a good time to explain how this new incarnation of The Plough came about. Having grown aggrieved with being forced to travel into London for a decent steak and paying over-the-top prices for American produce, the owners decided to start their own venture locally. As such, meat is definitely at the centre of the menu here, and there’s even a butcher’s counter by the kitchen, just in case you miss the raison d’être. You can even spot the chefs bustling away with their latest creations through the window beyond it.

For now, we were swept through to the main dining room area; hayloft above, light bulbs falling like raindrops from the ceiling and well-spaced tables welcoming in newcomers and regulars alike.

While the steak and charcoal grill is obviously the star, it should be said that there are plenty of interesting fish and veggie options on offer too – so, if you’re avoiding your red meat, or any meat, it should still prove a worthwhile journey.

Sylviane opted for a fresh crab dish to start, while I couldn’t resist something off the specials board. My pressed, smoked pork belly (cold-smoked for three hours in the pub’s smoker and slow-cooked in duck fat with thyme and garlic) was an absolute winner, served with poppingly fresh peas and a roasted garlic mayo. Absolutely moreish, and a nod to what might be to come from the kitchen team.

Sticking to the fish dishes, for her main course Sylviane chose the hake with a courgette and crab salad, goat’s curd and thyme. While I managed to sneak a forkful, the plate was jealously guarded.



Top of the league

Call me predictable, but I couldn’t resist the temptation of the Wagyu-Angus Cross Sirloin, which comes with a choice of 28-day or 50-day aging. This isn’t cheap but, my, it’s worth it for any steak-lover. Charcoal-grilled to perfection, it was meltingly good meat with a real depth to its flavour, and immediately leapt to the top of my ‘Best Steaks Ever’ list (which is kept pinned to the fridge…). Accompanied by a cavernous peppercorn sauce and triple-cooked chips on the side, it left me longing for more.

Make sure to keep a little room for dessert though, if our mouth-watering Eton mess and chocolate brownie are anything to go by.

Suffice to say, The Plough is everything that a top-end modern British pub aspires to be. I’d be amazed if it doesn’t go down a storm with the affluent diners in Cobham, Elmbridge and, indeed, as a destination for Surrey residents from further afield.

***

3 Surrey Life Food & Drink Awards Pub of the Year finalists

Dog and Pheasant

Haslemere Road, Brook 
GU8 5UJ

Tel: 01428 682763

A quintessentially English pub, found across from the village cricket pitch, this is another place that does its steak exceptionally well. Head there on a Wednesday grill night for the prime cuts.

The Onslow Arms

The Street, West Clandon 
GU4 7TF

Tel: 01483 222447

Set in the swanky countryside surrounds of Clandon, this beautiful pub is one that takes its food very seriously – and the fish specials are some of the best around.

The Red Lion

Castle Street, Bletchingley RH1 4NU

Tel: 01883 743342

One of those places that you’ve probably driven past numerous times and thought ‘well, that looks interesting’. Now’s the time to stop off, whether popping in for a drink or making the most of the delicious menu (the curries are fantastic).

0 comments

Welcome , please leave your message below.

Optional - JPG files only
Optional - MP3 files only
Optional - 3GP, AVI, MOV, MPG or WMV files
Comments

Please log in to leave a comment and share your views with other Surrey visitors.

We enable people to post comments with the aim of encouraging open debate.

Only people who register and sign up to our terms and conditions can post comments. These terms and conditions explain our house rules and legal guidelines.

Comments are not edited by Surrey staff prior to publication but may be automatically filtered.

If you have a complaint about a comment please contact us by clicking on the Report This Comment button next to the comment.

Not a member yet?

Register to create your own unique Surrey account for free.

Signing up is free, quick and easy and offers you the chance to add comments, personalise the site with local information picked just for you, and more.

Sign up now

More from Surrey Life

Tue, 10:56

The RAF is 100 years old this month. Ken Delve, who served with the RAF for 20 years, explores Surrey’s airfields and the parts they have played in the history of aviation over the past century

Read more
Tue, 10:03

Bassist and songwriter Jean-Jacques Burnel is a founder member of the band once known as The Guildford Stranglers. He speaks to Duncan Hall

Read more
Tue, 09:40

One of the biggest foodie events in the Surrey calendar is back for 2018! Voting is open and this year’s event will take place at G Live, Guildford on Thursday 13 September 2018

Read more
Tue, 09:35

Is there anything Mel Giedroyc cannot put her hand to? Despite parting ways with the Great British Bake Off when it moved to Channel 4 last year, she’s barely been off our TV screens; hosting Let It Shine, and Eurovision, as well as The Generation Game alongside her best pal and comedy sidekick Sue Perkins.

Read more
Mon, 11:34

Great things to do in Surrey this weekend: art exhibitions, walks, concerts, theatre, places to visit and other events and ideas.

Read more
Thursday, April 19, 2018

The Surrey County Show has been an annual fixture since the 1950s and the 2018 show is set to be the biggest and best yet

Read more
Tuesday, April 17, 2018

This edition of Surrey Life features all the local ingredients to make this month special

Read more
Tuesday, April 17, 2018

Whether it’s coronation chicken on sliced granary or a gluten free Victoria sponge, no sandwich works without the all-important filling!

Read more
Tuesday, April 17, 2018

The vegetarian and vegan offering in Surrey seems to be improving by the week. Here are nine of the best restaurants and cafés for vegetarians and vegans in Surrey

Read more
Tuesday, April 17, 2018

Small Designs is a collaboration between Ewhurst-based husband and wife team Deej and Small Carter, creating unique objects from reclaimed wood

Read more
Tuesday, April 17, 2018

Surrey-based Love Water has produced a water cooler for supporters of every 2018 World Cup team and Surrey Life readers have the chance to win one

Read more
Tuesday, April 17, 2018

Cranleigh Preparatory School has announced its new Headmaster will be Neil Brooks, current Principal of Fulham Prep Schools and previously Head of Cothill House

Read more
Friday, April 13, 2018

Surrey, set in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, has a wealth of beautiful gardens to visit. Throughout the open garden season you will find an array of stunning choices, many also serving delicious home-made teas to complete your visit. Gardening editor Leigh Clapp picks out a selection of her favourites

Read more
Friday, April 13, 2018

We round up 10 of the most beautiful photos of Surrey shared on Instagram this week…

Read more
 
Great British Holidays advert link

Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to the following newsletters:

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Topics of Interest

Food and Drink Directory

Subscribe or buy a mag today

subscription ad

Local Business Directory

Surrey's trusted business finder

Job search in your local area



Property Search