Foraging for funghi with the National Trust

Above: Foraging in Surrey

Above: National Trust warden Andy Goodwin
Originally published in Surrey Life magazine October 2008
In the first of a new series, in which the National Trust will be bringing us ideas for fun and seasonal things to do in Surrey, we hear from warden and fungi specialist Andy GoodwinAutumn is the best time of year to look for fungi, as they thrive when it’s warm and damp, and you can find literally hundreds of varieties.
My patch includes the Polesden Lacey estate, near Leatherhead, and Ranmore Common, near Dorking, which are absolutely full of fungi. In fact, in the fields and woods just around Polesden alone, you’ll come across a whole host of different species.
First of all, there’s the common fungi, such as Field Mushrooms, Ceps (also known as Penny Buns) and Giant Puff Balls – all of which are good eaters. There are also Shaggy Ink Caps, sometimes known as Lawyer’s Wigs, but these are not as desirable because they can make you ill if you drink alcohol with them.
You’ll also come across an array of colourful fungi, such as the Magpie Cap (named after its black and white colouring), Amethyst Deceiver (a bright purple colour and good to eat), Beechwood Sickner (a lovely red colour, but gets its name from the unpleasant after-effect if you try to eat one), Common Yellow Russule (best avoided as it must be cooked very well if eating), and Fly Agaric (the red and white spotted toadstool that you see in children’s stories and that also has nasty side effects if eaten).
There are some rather unpleasant smelling fungi, too, including the Dog Stinkhorn and Common Stinkhorn. These give off the scent of rotting flesh to attract flies to spread their spores.
Bracket fungi, found on trees or fallen timber around the estate, include Chicken of the Woods (another good one for cooking), Giant Polypore, Dryad’s Saddle and Artist’s Palette.
Approach with caution
You have to be careful when identifying fungi, especially if you want to eat them, as some, such as the Amethyst Deceiver, vary a lot and others look very similar to poisonous varieties – the poisonous Yellow-staining Mushroom, for instance, looks very much like the Field Mushroom. My best advice would be if you don’t know what you are looking for, don’t be tempted to pick.
It’s also important to remember that fungi should not be over-picked – some should always be left to spore, so only take what you really need and make sure you are with an expert. Although we don’t allow fungi to be picked during our guided fungi forays at Polesden Lacey, there are hundreds of varieties all across Surrey, so what you learn can be put to good use when you are out and about, especially on the North Downs.
Fungi are not only good in risottos, they are also one of the most important organisms around in ecological terms as they break down dead organic matter so that the nutrients they contain are put back into the environment.
The National Trust has a range of expert wardens and volunteers who lead guided fungi forays each year – these are a great way to familiarise yourself with the types of fungi around and which ones to avoid.
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